Mortgage insurance in the US

The annual cost of PMI varies and is expressed in terms of the total loan value in most cases, depending on the loan term, loan type, proportion of the total home value that is financed, the coverage amount, and the frequency of premium payments (monthly, annual, or single). The PMI may be payable up front, or it may be capitalized onto the loan in the case of single premium product. This type of insurance is usually only required if the downpayment is less than 20% of the sales price or appraised value (in other words, if the loan-to-value ratio (LTV) is 80% or more). Once the principal is reduced to 80% of value, the PMI is often no longer required. This can occur via the principal being paid down, via home value appreciation, or both. In the case of lender-paid MI, the term of the policy can vary based upon the type of coverage provide (either primary insurance, or some sort of pool insurance policy). Borrowers typically have no knowledge of any lender-paid MI, in fact most "No MI Required" loans actually have lender-paid MI, which is funded through a higher interest rate that the borrower pays.

Sometimes lenders will require that LMI be paid for a fixed period (for example, 2 or 3 years), even if the principal reaches 80% sooner than that. Legally, there is no obligation to allow the cancellation of MI until the loan has amortized to a 78% LTV ratio (based on the original purchase price). The cancellation request must come from the Servicer of the mortgage to the PMI company who issued the insurance. Often the Servicer will require a new appraisal to determine the LTV. The cost of mortgage insurance varies considerably based on several factors which include: loan amount, LTV, occupancy (primary, second home, investment property), documentation provided at loan origination, and most of all, credit score.

If borrowers have less than the 20% downpayment needed to avoid a mortgage insurance requirement, they might be able to make use of a second mortgage (sometimes referred to as a "piggy-back loan") to make up the difference.[3] Two popular versions of this lending technique are the so-called 80/10/10 and 80/15/5 arrangements. Both involve obtaining a primary mortgage for 80% LTV. An 80/10/10 program uses a 10% LTV second mortgage with a 10% downpayment, and an 80/15/5 program uses a 15% LTV second mortgage with a 5% downpayment. Other combinations of second mortgage and downpayment amounts might also be available. One advantage of using these arrangements is that under United States tax law, mortgage interest payments may be deductible on the borrower's income taxes, whereas mortgage insurance premiums were not until 2007. In some situations, the all-in cost of borrowing may be cheaper using a piggy-back than by going with a single loan that includes borrower-paid or lender-paid MI.
[edit] LMI/PMI tax deduction

Mortgage insurance became tax-deductible in 2007 in the USA.[4] For some homeowners, the new law made it cheaper to get mortgage insurance than to get a 'piggyback' loan. The MI tax deductibility provision passed in 2006 provides for an itemized deduction for the cost of private mortgage insurance for homeowners earning up to $109,000 annually.[4]

The original law was extended in 2007 to provide for a three-year deduction, effective for mortgage contracts issued after December 31, 2006 and before January 1, 2010. It does not apply to mortgage insurance contracts that were in existence prior to passage of the legislation.[4]

The Hybrid adjustable rate

FHA administers a number of programs, based on Section 203(b), that have special features. One of these programs, Section 251, insures adjustable rate mortgages (ARMs) which, particularly during periods when interest rates are low, enable borrowers to obtain mortgage financing that is more affordable by virtue of its lower initial interest rate. This interest rate is adjusted annually, based on market indices approved by FHA, and thus may increase or decrease over the term of the loan. In 2006 FHA received approval to allow hybrid ARMs, in which the interest is fixed for the first 3 or 5 years, and is then adjusted annually according to market conditions and indices.

The FHA Hybrid provides for an initial fixed interest rate for a period of three or five years, and then adjusts annually after the initial fixed period. The 3/1 and 5/1 FHA Hybrid products allow up to a 1% annual interest rate adjustment after the initial fixed interest rate period, and a 5% interest rate cap over the life of the loan. The new payment after an adjustment will be calculated on the current principal balance at the time of the adjustment. This insures that the payment adjustment will be minimal even on a worst case rate change.

INDEX AND MARGINS The index is the weekly average yield on U.S. Treasury Securities adjusted to a constant maturity of one year which is currently at .22%.(10/15/2010) Also known as the 1-Year Constant Maturity Index. FHA ARM loans have a 2.00% margin so the indexed rate that FHA loans adjust off of today is 2.22%.

Down payment grants

Down payment assistance and community redevelopment programs offer affordable housing opportunities to first-time homebuyers, low- and moderate-income individuals, and families who wish to achieve homeownership. Grant types include seller funded programs, the [1] Grant America Program and others, as well as programs that are funded by the federal government, such as the American Dream Down Payment Initiative, or local governments, often using mortgage revenue bond funds.

On May 27, 2006, the IRS issued Revenue Ruling 2006-27, categorizing the non-profit seller funded down payment assistance programs (DPA programs) as "scams."[4] The IRS ruled that organizations such as AmeriDream and Partners in Charity are no longer eligible for non-profit status and are not acting as "charitable organizations" as defined by the IRS. This ruling was based largely on the circular nature of the cash flows, in which the seller pays the charity a "fee" after closing. Many believe that the "grant" is really being rolled into the price of the home. According to the Government Accountability Office, there are higher default and foreclosure rates for these mortgages.[5]

On October 31, 2007, the Department of Housing and Urban Development adopted new regulations to ban so-called "seller-funded" down payment programs. The new regulations state that all organizations providing down payment assistance reimbursed by the property seller "before, during, or after" that sale must cease providing grants on FHA loans by October 30, 2007, with the exception of the Nehemiah Corporation. Nehemiah is the beneficiary of a lawsuit settlement with Department of Housing and Urban Development in April 1998. The terms of that settlement will allow Nehemiah to operate until April 1, 2008. Ameridream was granted an extension to the new regulations until February 29, 2008.[6]

Several similarly operated government grant programs were introduced in response to the IRS Revenue Ruling in May 2006. Their governmental status made them exempt from the IRS Ruling, but they are still affected by the HUD Rule Change. One such organization was The Grant America Program, which was conducted by the Penobscot Indian Nation and had been available to all homebuyers in all fifty states.

How to obtain an FHA loan

FHA does not make loans. Rather, it insures loans made by private lenders. The first step in obtaining an FHA loan is to contact several lenders and/or mortgage brokers and ask them if they originate FHA loans. As each lender sets its own rates and terms, comparison shopping is important in this market.

Second, the potential lender assesses the prospective home buyer for risk. The analysis of one's debt to income ratio enables the buyer to know what type of home can be afforded based on monthly income and expenses and is one risk metric considered by the lender. Other factors, e.g. payment history on other debts, are considered and used to make decisions regarding eligibility and terms for a loan.

Section 251 insures home purchase or refinancing loans with interest rates that may increase or decrease over time, which enables consumers to purchase or refinance their home at a lower initial interest rate.

FHA's mortgage insurance programs help low- and moderate-income families become homeowners by lowering some of the costs of their mortgage loans. FHA mortgage insurance also encourages lenders to make loans to otherwise credit-worthy borrowers and projects that might not be able to meet conventional underwriting requirements, protecting the lender against loan default on mortgages for properties that meet certain minimum requirements—including manufactured homes, single and multifamily properties, and some health-related facilities. The basic FHA mortgage insurance program is Mortgage Insurance for One- to Four-Family Homes (Section 203(b)).

FHA allows first time homebuyers to put down as little as 3.5% and receive up to 6% towards closing costs. Specific FHA lender overlays may be tighter. For example very few lenders will allow a buyer to contribute more than 3% toward allowable closing costs. If little or no credit exists for the applicants, the FHA will allow a blood relative, such as a parent, to co-sign for the loan without requiring them to reside in home with first time homebuyer. This is called a Non-Owner-Occupied Co-Borrower. Depending on the state you reside in, you may receive a discount on your State Transfer Taxes at settlement. Again, the specific FHA lender's underwriting guidelines will have their own standards. Very few lenders will fund FHA loans for buyers without a minimum 620 FICO score. For below 620 FICO scores, interest rates will be higher.

FHA insured loan

An FHA insured loan is a Federal Housing Administration mortgage insurance backed mortgage loan which are provided by FHA-approved lenders. FHA insured loans are a type of federal assistance and have historically allowed lower income Americans to borrow money for the purchase of a home that they would not otherwise be able to afford. To obtain mortgage insurance from the Federal Housing Administration, a mortgage insurance premium (MIP) equal to a percentage of the loan amount at closing is required, and is normally financed by the lender and paid to FHA on the borrower's behalf. Depending on the loan-to-value ratio, there may be a monthly premium as well.

The program originated during the Great Depression of the 1930s, when the rates of foreclosures and defaults rose sharply, and the program was intended to provide lenders with sufficient insurance. Some FHA programs were subsidized by the government, but the goal was to make it self-supporting, based on insurance premiums paid by borrowers. Over time, private mortgage insurance (PMI) companies came into play, and now FHA primarily serves people who cannot afford a conventional down payment or otherwise do not qualify for PMI.

History

The National Housing Act of 1934 created the Federal Housing Administration (FHA), which was established primarily to increase home construction, reduce unemployment, and operate various loan insurance programs.[1] The FHA makes no loans, nor does it plan or build houses. As in the Veterans Administration's VA loan program, the applicant for the loan must make arrangements with a lending institution. This financial organization then may ask if the borrower wants FHA insurance on the loan or may insist that the borrower apply for it. The federal government, through the Federal Housing Administration, investigates the applicant and, having decided that the risk is favorable, insures the lending institution against loss of principal in case the borrower fails to meet the terms and conditions of the mortgage. The borrower, who pays an insurance premium of one half of 1 percent on declining balances for the lender's protection, receives two benefits: a careful appraisal by an FHA inspector and a lower interest rate on the mortgage than the lender might have offered without the protection.

Until the latter half of the 1960s, the Federal Housing Administration served mainly as an insuring agency for loans made by private lenders. However, in recent years this role has been expanded as the agency became the administrator of interest rate subsidy and rent supplement programs. Important subsidy programs such as the Civil Rights Act of 1968 were established by the United States Department of Housing and Urban Development.[1]

In 1974 the Housing and Community Development Act was passed.[1] Its provisions significantly altered federal involvement in a wide range of housing and community development activities. The new law made a variety of changes in FHA activities, although it did not involve (as had been proposed) a complete rewriting and consolidation of the National Housing Act. It did, however, include provisions relating to the lending and investment powers of federal savings and loan associations, the real estate lending authority of national banks, and the lending and depositary authority of federal credit unions.

Further changes occurred in the 1977 Housing and Community Development Act, which raised ceilings on single-family loan amounts for savings and loan association lending, federal agency purchases, FHA insurance, and security for Federal Home Loan Bank advances. In 1980 the Housing and Community Development Act was passed; it permitted negotiated interest rates on certain FHA loans and created a new FHA rental subsidy program for middle-income families.

Calculations

The price paid for payment protection insurance can vary quite significantly depending on the lender. A survey of forty-eight major lenders by Which? Ltd found the price of PPI was 16-25% of the amount of the debt.

PPI premiums may be charged on a monthly basis or the full PPI premium may be added to the loan up-front to cover the cost of the policy. With this latter payment approach, known as a “Single Premium Policy,” the money borrowed from the provider to pay for the insurance policy incurs additional interest, typically at the same APR as is being charged for the original sum borrowed, further increasing the effective total cost of the policy to the customer.[5]

Payment protection insurance on credit cards is calculated differently from lump sum loans, as initially there is no sum outstanding and it is unknown if the customer will ever use their card facility. However, in the event that the credit facility is used and the balance is not paid in full each month, a customer will be charged typically between o.78% to 1% or £0.78 to £1.00 from every £100 which is a balance of their current card balance on a monthly basis as the premium for the insurance. When interest on the credit card is added to the premium, it can become very expensive. For example, the cost of PPI for the average credit card in the UK charging 19.32% on an average of £5000 each month adds an extra £3,219.88 in premiums and interest.

With lump sum loans PPI premiums are paid upfront with the cost from 13% to 56% of the loan amount as reported by the Citizens Advice Bureau (CAB) who launched a Super Complaint into what it called the Protection Racket.
PPI premiums as proportion of loan: cases reported[6]

    * Loan Type Unsecured personal loan Loan amount £8,993 PPI premium £2,217 Premium % of loan 25%
    * Loan Type Unsecured personal loan Loan amount £11,000 PPI premium £5,133 Premium % of loan 47%
    * Loan Type Hire purchase for car Loan amount £5,059 PPI premium £2,157 Premium % of loan 43%
    * Loan Type Hire purchase for car Loan amount £6,895 PPI premium £2,317 Premium % of loan 34%
    * Loan Type Unsecured loan Loan amount £5,600 PPI premium £744 Premium % of loan 13%
    * Loan Type Secured loan Loan amount £25,000 PPI premium £12,127 Premium % of loan 49%
    * Loan Type Secured loan Loan amount £35,000 PPI premium £10,150 Premium % of loan 29%
    * Loan Type Conditional sale for car Loan amount £4,300 PPI premium £2,394 Premium % of loan 56%

When interest is charged on the premiums, the cost of a single premium policy increases the cost geometrically. The above secured loan of £25,000 over a 25 year term and 4.5% interest costs the customer an addition £20,221.74 for PPI. Moneymadeclear[7] calculates the repayment for that loan to be £138.96 a month whereas a stand alone payment protection policy for say a 30 year old borrowing the same amount covering the same term would cost the customer £1992 in total, almost one tenth of the cost of the single premium policy

Controversy

In all types of insurance some claims are accepted and some are rejected, however in the case of PPI the number of rejected claims is high compared to other types of insurance. A primary reason for this is that the insurance is underwritten at the sales stage and is taken out by customers without careful assessment as to whether it is right for their circumstances and without careful attention to the policy eligibility conditions. Individuals who seek out and purchase a policy without advice have little recourse if and when a policy does not benefit them. However most PPI policies are not sought out by consumers and in some cases consumers are not aware that they even have the insurance.[1]

As PPI is designed to cover repayments on loans and credit cards, most loans and credit card companies sell the product at the same time as they sell the credit product. By May 2008 20 million PPI policies existed in the UK with a further increase of 7 million policies a year being purchased thereafter[citation needed]. On average this would mean that at least 72% of the UK's adult population would have one PPI policy. Surveys show that 40% of policyholders were totally unaware that they had a policy[citation needed]. According to the Financial Services Authority 95% of all claims were upheld by the Financial Ombudsman Service (FOS), which means that 95% of PPI policies sold by banks and lenders in the UK were mis-sold. It then follows that, assuming one policy per person, almost 70% of the adult UK population has been mis-sold a PPI policy.

PPI has been widely mis-sold, with this mis-selling being carried out by not only the banks or providers but also by third party brokers. One major high street bank sold almost £400m of PPI with their financial products making an astonishing 80% profit[2]. The sale of such policies was typically encouraged by large commissions [3], as the insurance would commonly make the bank/provider more money than the interest on the original loan such that many mainstream personal loan providers may make no profit on the loans themselves; all or almost all profit is derived from PPI commission and profit shares. Certain companies developed sales scripts which guided salespeople say only that the loan was “protected” without mentioning the insurance or its cost. When challenged by the customer, they sometimes incorrectly stated that this insurance improves the borrower's chances of getting the loan or that it was mandatory.[4] A consumer in a financial difficulty is unlikely to further question the policy and risk the loan's being refused.

Several high-profile companies have now been fined by the Financial Services Authority for the widespread mis-selling of Payment Protection Insurance. Claims against mis-sold PPI have been slowly increasing and may approach the levels seen during 2006-07 period, when thousands of bank customers were making claims regarding unfair bank charges. In their 2009/2010 annual report, the FOS stated that 30% of new cases referred to payment protection insurance. A customer who purchases a PPI policy may initiate a claim for mis-sold PPI by complaining to the bank, lender or broker who sold the policy,

Payment protection insurance

Payment Protection Insurance, (also known as PPI, Credit Protection Insurance, Loan Repayment Insurance, not to be confused with Income Protection or credit card cover) is an insurance product that is designed to cover a debt that is currently outstanding. This debt is typically in the form of a loan or an overdraft, and is most widely sold by banks and other credit providers as an add-on to the loan or overdraft product. It typically covers the borrower against an accident, sickness, unemployment or death, circumstances that may prevent them from earning a salary/wage by which they can service the debt.

PPI usually covers minimum loan (or overdraft) payments for a finite period (typically 12 months). After this point the borrower must find other means to repay the debt, though the period covered by insurance is typically long enough for most people to start working again and earn enough to service their debt. PPI is different from other types of insurance such as home insurance, in that it can be quite difficult to determine if it is right for a person or not. Careful assessment of what would happen if a person became unemployed would need to be considered, as payments in lieu of notice (for example) may render a claim ineligible despite the insured person being genuinely unemployed. In this case, the approach taken by PPI insurers is consistent with that taken by the Benefits Agency in respect of unemployment benefits.

UK Mortgage Insurance

How do we submit a commercial mortgage loan request to McCary Stevens? Contact (click here) one of us by phone or email and discuss the deal preliminarily with us. If it sounds like a deal we can finance, we'll take you through the process.

What repayment options are available? A variety of other more complex routes for procuring a commercial mortgage are available, however it will be necessary to undertake independent financial advice on these.First of all, decide whether you want to apply and negotiate directly with the lenders yourself or if you would prefer an independent intermediary or finance broker to represent you. If possible, prepare your current accounts or a comprehensive business plan. These will help you to qualify for the best rates and terms. Finally, take legal or accounting advice regarding the ownership structure of the commercial property as there are tax implications
associated with this.We fill a niche that conventional lenders/banks can not make a loan; whether that is because of the type of credit score type of


What is a 100% commercial mortgage? It can be difficult for small businesses to raise enough capital for a deposit on commercial property so some lenders provide the option of a 100% commercial mortgage. To qualify for this option you will need to provide additional security, usually in the form of other commercial or residential property.

What are the benefits of a commercial mortgage? Aside from providing your business with a major asset that is likely to appreciate in value, a commercial mortgage offers a wide range of additional benefits. Depending on the terms of your mortgage contract, the repayments may be similar to your current rental payments, which means you won't have to budget for additional property expenditure or rental increases.It can be difficult for small businesses to raise enough capital for a deposit on commercial property so some lenders provide the option of a 100% commercial mortgage. To qualify for this option you will need to provide additional security, usually in the form of other commercial or residential property.Castle Commercial Mortgage typically charges for a short-term (i.e. 6 months): 3% Origination Fee & 13% APR.

How do we submit a commercial mortgage loan request to McCary Stevens? Contact (click here) one of us by phone or email and discuss the deal preliminarily with us. If it sounds like a deal we can finance, we'll take you through the process.First of all, decide whether you want to apply and negotiate directly with the lenders yourself or if you would prefer an independent intermediary or finance broker to represent you. If possible, prepare your current accounts or a comprehensive business plan.

Will there be any additional charges? The costs involved in raising a commercial mortgage vary depending on the route you decide to take, including whether you choose to negotiate yourself or engage the services of an independent intermediary. Some fees and costs that may need to be taken into account when setting up a commercial mortgage include:Before you begin the home buying process, you need to have some idea of what you can afford. Many so called ???experts??? state that you can purchase a home with a value of two or three times your annual household income, depending on your savings and debt of course. However, this guideline may cause you to become ???house rich, cash poor.

Your First Line Of Defense

Downsizing, rightsizing, forced retirement, layoffs, firings, outsourcing, and being made redundant.

All could mean the same thing to you: financial catastrophe.

No, you may not have to declare bankruptcy or move back in with your parents, but losing your job could put a big dent in your financial goals and even set you back several years. You may need to live on your savings or liquidate some of your investments.

If you have no savings or investments you may have to rely on credit cards and could rack up significant credit card debt. Then when you find a new job, your expenses may have increased because of the additional credit card payments.

And the job you eventually find may not pay as much as the one you lost. So you are now forced to live on less while your expenses have either continued at the same level or even gone up.

Studies show that the average worker will have six career changes in his or her lifetime. Not just job changes, but career changes.

So how can you prepare for your own financial "downtime"?

An emergency fund.

An emergency fund is really just savings. But it is not savings for a particular item or even an investment for your future or your retirement. It is your "rainy-day" fund. But unlike insurance where once you pay your premium, the money is out of your hands, your emergency fund is yours to keep.

So how much do you need? How can you build your emergency fund? And where should you keep the money?

The easiest way to figure out how large your emergency fund should be is to take your current income and multiply it by the number of months you could be out of work. If you make $3,000 each month and you want to be prepared for a 6 month "vacation", you will need $18,000.

But obviously saving $18,000 will take some time. How quickly you want to build your emergency fund depends on how concerned you may be about your current and future employment prospects.

Saving $100 each month will take you 180 months or 15 years. Saving more each month means you will be protected sooner. Also consider that during the next 15 years your income may increase and your expenses usually rise to match your income.

Also consider inflation. (If you own your home, your house payment may not rise. If you are renting, your rent probably will.) The cost of food, utilities and taxes also rise over the years. At a 3% inflation rate after 15 years your $18,000 will only buy $11,400 worth of goods.

A good rule of thumb for saving is to try to save enough each year to supply you with one month's income. This means you are saving 1/12 or 8.3% of your monthly income.

This will allow you to build your emergency fund by one month every year. After only six years you will have a six-month supply of emergency cash. Then you can continue to extend your "coverage-period" or you can divert the monthly payment into other savings or investments.

Most people find that "billing" themselves for savings and investments is a good way to put your savings on auto-pilot. If an amount is taken automatically from your bank account each month, it is easier to handle than if you wait until the end of the month and try to save from what you have left over. (How often do you have anything left over?)

So where is the best place to keep your emergency fund? Probably not a place where you can have easy access to it - too tempting. Definitely not as cash in the cookie jar - too unsafe (and no interest). And probably not in 5 year CDs - too restrictive. You may want to avoid CDs altogether so that you are not charged an early withdrawal penalty when you can least afford it.

Savings accounts are OK, but usually pay very little interest. If a savings account is your choice, open one at a bank that you don't regularly use. Also don't get a checking account to avoid the temptation to spend "just a little" bit here and there.

Or look for a money market account that pays a reasonable interest rate. You may want to consider a money market account that only invests in tax-free securities. This way you won't have to worry about paying taxes on your interest.

Then set up an auto-withdrawal from your regular checking account or direct deposit amount from your pay check right into this new account. Adjust your budget to accommodate having less money each month and forget about it.

You can also give your emergency fund a boost now and then by putting "windfall" money into to it. You know "free-money"; birthday gifts, inheritances, insurance settlements, escrow overages, rebates, tax refunds, etc.

Your emergency fund becomes your own financial insurance policy. And if you never use it you will have that much more money to play with when you retire. Or even retire early with the extra money you have saved.

Life Insurance

The main purpose of life insurance is to replace your income for your family if something should happen to you. If you are single, you probably don't need life insurance. If your kids raised and you have planned well for retirement, you probably don't need life insurance. Anyone with children still at home should carry life insurance, unless an alternative plan is in place.

For savings, choose term insurance. If you want insurance protection only, and not a savings and investment product, buy a term life insurance policy. You will probably be quite surprised at how reasonable it is. There are several companies that can "shop" the rates for you and help you narrow down the field. Select the longest term you can afford and make sure the rates are set for the entire term.

For investment, choose other insurance. If you want to buy a whole life, universal life, or other cash value policy, plan to hold it for at least 15 years. It is, after all, an investment. Canceling these policies after only a few years can more than double your life insurance costs.

Check your public library for information about the financial soundness of insurance companies and the prices they charge. The July 1998 issue of Consumer Reports is a valuable source of information about a number of insurers.

Home owner / Renter Insurance

Raise your deductible. Nowadays, most insurance companies recommend a deductible of at least $500. If you can afford to raise your deductible to $1,000, you may save as much as 25 percent. Remember, if you live in a disaster-prone area, your insurance policy may have a separate deductible for certain kinds of damage. If you live near the coast in the East, you may have a separate windstorm deductible; if you live in a state vulnerable to hail storms, you may have a separate deductible for hail; and if you live in an earthquake-prone area, your earthquake policy has a deductible.

Make your home more disaster resistant. Find out from your insurance agent or company representative what steps you can take to make your home more resistant to windstorms and other natural disasters. You may be able to save on your premiums by adding storm shutters, reinforcing your roof, or buying stronger roofing materials. Older homes can be retrofitted to make them better able to withstand earthquakes. In addition, consider modernizing your heating, plumbing and electrical systems to reduce the risk of fire and water damage.

Get the right amount of coverage. Make certain you purchase enough coverage to replace the house and its contents. "Replacement" on the house means rebuilding to its current condition. Don't confuse what you paid for your house with rebuilding costs. The land under your house isn't at risk from theft, windstorm, fire and the other perils covered in your homeowners policy. So don't include its value in deciding how much homeowners insurance to buy. If you do, you will pay a higher premium than you should.

Improve your home security. You can usually get discounts of at least 5 percent for a smoke detector, burglar alarm or dead-bolt locks. Some companies offer to cut your premium by as much as 15 or 20 percent if you install a sophisticated sprinkler system and a fire and burglar alarm that rings at the police, fire or other monitoring stations. These systems aren't cheap and not every system qualifies for a discount. Before you buy such a system, find out what kind your insurer recommends, how much the device would cost and how much you would save on premiums.

Seek out other discounts. Companies offer several types of discounts, but they don't all offer the same discount or the same amount of discount in all states. That's why you should ask your agent or company representative about any discounts available to you. For example, since retired people stay at home more than working people, they are less likely to be burglarized and may spot fires sooner. Retired people also have more time for maintaining their homes. If you're at least 55 years old and retired, you may qualify for a discount of up to 10 percent at some companies.

Review annually. Review the limits in your policy and the value of your possessions at least once a year. You want your policy to cover any major purchases or additions to your home. But you don't want to spend money for coverage you don't need. If your five-year-old fur coat is no longer worth the $5,000 you paid for it, you'll want to reduce or cancel your floater (extra insurance for items whose full value is not covered by standard homeowners policies) and pocket the difference.

Look for private insurance if you are in a government plan. If you live in a high-risk area -- say, one that is especially vulnerable to coastal storms, fires, or crime -- and have been buying your homeowners insurance through a government plan, you should check with an insurance agent or company representative or contact your state department of insurance for the names of companies that might be interested in your business. You may find that there are steps you can take that would allow you to buy insurance at a lower price in the private market.

Buyer beware. When you're buying a home, consider the cost of homeowners insurance. You may pay less for insurance if you buy a house close to a fire hydrant or in a community that has a professional rather than a volunteer fire department. It may also be cheaper if your home's electrical, heating and plumbing systems are less than 10 years old. If you live in the East, consider a brick home because it's more wind resistant. If you live in an earthquake-prone area, look for a wooden frame house because it is more likely to withstand this type of disaster.

Choosing wisely could cut your premiums by 5 to 15 percent. Remember that flood insurance and earthquake damage are not covered by a standard homeowners policy. If you buy a house in a flood-prone area, you'll have to pay for a flood insurance policy that costs an average of $400 a year. The Federal Emergency Management Agency provides useful information on flood insurance on its Web site at http://www.fema.gov/. A separate earthquake policy is available from most insurance companies. The cost of the coverage will depend on the likelihood of earthquakes in your area.

Ask questions. If you have questions about insurance for any of your possessions, be sure to ask your agent or company representative when you're shopping around for a policy. For example, if you run a business out of your home, be sure to discuss coverage for that business. Most homeowners policies cover business equipment in the home, but only up to $2,500 and they offer no business liability insurance. Although you want to lower your homeowners insurance cost, you also want to make certain you have all the coverage you need.

Auto Insurance

Get your discounts. Make sure you get all the discounts you may qualify for. Check on discounts for safety and security features. Safety features can also lower your payments. Heading the list of money saving safety features is antilock brakes. Check to see if the insurance company you have or are considering gives a discount for this feature. Automatic seatbelts and airbags may also give you premium discounts.

Stay clean. Keep your driver's record clean; avoid tickets, especially moving violations. Drive a car that is less popular with thieves, inexpensive to repair, and/or an older model. When shopping for a new car, check with your insurer about insurance costs as well.

Raise your deductible. Talk to your agent or insurer about raising your deductibles on collision and comprehensive coverages to $500 or more. Deductibles are the amount of money you have to pay toward a loss before your insurance company starts to pay a claim, according to the terms of your policy. The higher your deductible, the more money you can save on your premiums. If you have an old car consider dropping these coverages altogether. Taking these steps can save you hundreds of dollars a year.

Check for a low-risk occupation discount. Insurance companies collect information about what types of people get into accidents. Over the years they have seen trends that show that drivers in certain occupations tend to get into fewer accidents. These occupations are then labeled "low-risk". Since, on average, drivers in these occupations have a lower chance of getting into an accident, insurance rates for them are lower. Check with your insurance company or agent if you are in a low-risk occupation.

Save Money On Insurance

Did you know that you could be overpaying for your insurance by as much as hundreds of dollars? Most of us have a hard time getting excited about shopping for different insurance, but a little time invested can go a long way in saving you money. Of course, the cost of premiums isn't the be-all-end-all; quality of service, quick response to claims, and financial soundness are all important factors to consider. However, the focus of this article is on getting and keeping those automobile, homeowner/renter, and life insurance premiums down. First we'll discuss some generalities; then we'll get down to some specifics for each category.

Shop around. Shopping around for insurance will take some time, but could save you a good sum of money. Ask your friends, check the Yellow Pages or call your state insurance department. You can also access insurance information for your state on the Internet at http://www.naic.org/state_contacts/sid_websites.htm. States often make information available on typical rates charged by major insurers and many states provide the frequency of consumer complaints by company. Also check consumer guides, insurance agents, companies and online insurance quote services.

This will give you an idea of price ranges and tell you which companies have the lowest prices. But don't consider price alone. The insurer you select should offer a fair price and deliver the quality service you would expect if you needed assistance in filing a claim. So talk to a number of insurers to get a feeling for the type of service they give. Ask them what they would do to lower your costs. Check the financial ratings of the companies with AM Best or Standard and Poor's.

Compare against your current policy. When comparing companies, have your current policy handy when calling so you can compare apples to apples. And if you do find a better policy, absolutely make certain that your new policy is in effect before dropping your old one.

Use a licensed, low-price insurer. You can save several hundred dollars a year on homeowner or auto insurance and up to $50 a year on renter insurance by purchasing from a licensed, low-price insurer. Call your state insurance department for a publication showing typical prices charged by different companies. Then call at least four of the lowest-priced, licensed insurers to learn what they would charge you for the same coverage. If such a publication is not available, it is even more important to call at least four insurers for price quotes.

Use the same insurer for multiple policies. Whenever possible, buy your home and auto policies from the same insurer. Some companies that sell homeowners, auto and liability coverage will take 5 to 15 percent off your premium if you buy two or more policies from them. But make certain this combined price is lower than buying the different coverages from different companies.

Stay with the same insurer. If you've kept your coverage with a company for several years, you may receive a special discount for being a long-term policyholder. This is why it is important to compare against your current policy. Some insurers will reduce their premiums by 5 percent if you stay with them for three to five years and by 10 percent if you remain a policyholder for six years or more. Check to ensure that you are getting the "renewal" discount. But make certain to periodically compare this price with that of other policies.

Look into group coverage. If your employer administers a group insurance program, check to see if a homeowners or auto policy is available and whether it is a better deal than you can find elsewhere. In addition, professional, alumni and business groups often work out an insurance package with an insurance company, which includes a discount for association members. Ask your association's director if an insurer is offering a discount on homeowners or auto insurance to you and your fellow graduates or colleagues. If you are a member of an auto club, such as an affiliation AAA, check with that organization as well.

With those general rules out of the way, let's move on to some specifics.